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 Post subject: Oil Change Procedure
PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 8:47 am
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To get the oil to flow a little better, the engine should be warm. If you are running a motor flush, pour in the oil fill tube and run the car for 5 minutes as per instructions. Do not drive the car, just let it idle. Then shut off the vehicle. Jack up the vehicle and putting a pair of jack stands under a sturdy part of the car (control arms, frame, cross members) they all work. Just be careful, the car can crush you. Crawl under the car and locate the oil pan. Bolted directly to the bottom of the engine, the oil pan contains the majority of the oil during operation as a surplus to run through the motor. 94-95 Mustangs have 2 drain plugs due to the U-shaped pan. Most have only one. Find the correct size wrench or socket and turn the drain plug counter-clockwise (left) it will probably be snug so apply smooth even pressure, try not to jerk it because the car could slide off the jack. Once the drain plug turns free, slide the drain pan under the plug and remove the plug. Note: Just before the last thread, make sure you have a good grip on the drain plug otherwise it will fall into a pool of oil and you have to go fish. Take caution not to have your face too near, because the oil will be hot. Allow it to drain until the oil stops its constant dripping.
Before putting the drain plug back in, inspect the gasket (neoprene, copper, rubber or paper) and make sure it’s still intact for future reference. These can be purchased at any auto parts store. Wipe the pan and the drain plug to remove any dirt so you get a good seal. Tighten the drain plug until it stops spinning with just your fingers... after this turn the wrench/ratchet another 1/8-1/4 turn. You want it snug but not so much that you strip it or that its impossible to get off next time.
Locate the oil filter. On most of the Ford's, it is on the driver's side. It will be higher up on the engine. The K&N oil filter already has a nut on it for easy removal, but for the rest, use the oil filter wrench and once again rotate counter-clockwise until it breaks free. Place the drain pan under the filter as well. Spin off the filter with your hand. The filter may seem heavy because it is full of oil so do not turn upside down until it is over the oil pan. This will not drain as long. On the new oil filter you won't use the wrench to tighten it, because that can cause leaks. Fill the filter about 3/4 of the way with new oil to prevent a dry start. You can get almost a full quart of oil in your new filter by adding oil until it is full and then waiting for it to seep through the filter material into the other chamber of the filter. This takes time so it is one of the first things to do when starting an oil change. Come back to it periodically during the change and add some more oil. If you top the filter off completely, some of the oil will spill out when you tip the filter to put it on so leave about 1" below the top of the filter. Also take a little bit of new oil and rub it on the rubber seal on top of the filter to help it seal. Spin it on and snug it ½ to ¾ turn with your. Don't over-do it.
You are half done now. Slide the pan and jackstands out from under the car, and lower the car. Open the hood and locate the oil fill tube. Most times it will have oil written on it. It’s a good idea to use a funnel to avoid a mess. Pour in the correct amount of oil for the engine (your owners manual or parts stores can tell you the engine capacity). For engines over 75,000 miles I recommend switching the oil to 20W50. This is thicker oil and will help protect the engine better. Now would be an optimal time to add your favorite additive. Once you get all the oil in, replace the oil fill tube cap and locate the oil dipstick. Usually a yellow handle, pull it out and wipe it off with a rag or paper towel. Replace the dipstick in the tube, all the way down and pull it back out. Look at the markings on the end and make sure the oil is in the proper zone. An old trick is to drill a very small hole and the ADD line so you can see a truer reading if there is any oil in the hole. Put the dipstick back and start the car... let the car run for about 10 minutes you can drive it at this time but don't drive hard. This allows the oil to circulate through the heads and the entire engine and lubricate the moving parts. Congratulations on your first oil change!

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