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Mustang Club of Maryland Public Forum

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 Post subject: Upgrade your shaker 500/1000 for far better sound
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:40 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Essex Md
Ok I was stumbling around the internet trying to see if my Shaker in my 05 was satellite ready, it's not { if you read this posting before, you will know that I had some bad things to say about the shaker, I apologize for my snide comments, I only want to help out if this is something you would like to do }, but in my looking I came across a thread on the Mustang Forums http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1490837/ ... ey_/tm.htm that talked about how much better sound you get out if the speaker system and subs that are already in the car if you just upgrade the head unit to a hi end after market head unit like Alpine, Kenwood or my favorite Pioneer, any of the good ones will give you the results that I mentioned. I did this and wow what a difference, the only problem that I found to the hole thing is that all of the aftermarket units use a 12 Volt + turn on lead for the amps, the shaker uses a 5 V + turn on, this causes a loud pop when you start the car or turn on the stereo unit, some folks just deal with it, but my fear is that if you continue to feed 12 v into something made to take 5 v that your going to burn it out eventually, so I saw on the Mustang Forums thread that you can build a 5 volt converter with parts from radio shack, if you read that thread you will see what they suggest and you may want to go that way, but, I have a simple fix for the 12V/5V turn on problem, after reading the whole Mustang Forums posting
I went to Radio Shack and ask for the things I needed and they looked at me as if I was
Speaking another language or something, So I came up with something that worked
Perfectly, if you are a little afraid of soldering things together and finding heatsinks and all of that, Just go buy a cell phone car charger that is for a 4.5 Volt DC phone and do this.
Take the cigarette lighter plug of the phone charger apart; this is normally 1 or 2 phillips screws,
Hook up the 12 V + amp turn on from the head unit to the 12 V + wire that feeds the
Phone charger {this will be the wire that is attached to the center post of the adapter,
Go ahead and cut this wire off of the post as you will not use the post and you will want to remove it from the adapter so it cant cause a short later} Hook the Ground – wire of the adapter {this is the wire that is attached to the side contact of the lighter adapter, go ahead and cut this wire off of the side contact and remove the side contact, again because you don’t want it to cause a short later as well} to the Ground wire of the head unit, you must use both of these wires because you will only be using 4.5V + of the 12V + that the head unit provides, so the other 7.5 volts have to be siphoned off and you will need a ground to take care of that, without going in detail of how all that works. Now you are going to cut off the plug that would have gone to the phone, at this point you will have 2 wires, and they will be 4.5 Volts + and -, you only have 1 turn on wire that you need to hook up to the harness that plugs into the cars amp and this will be the + or Positive, the – or negative wire you will want to tape up as this wire will not be used, make sure you have taped or in some other way insulated all of you wires so you don’t get any shorts, ok now put the lighter adapter back together without the center and side contacts that you removed earlier, the wires that you hooked up to the 12 Volt side of the adapter can be routed threw the hole that used to hold the center post [ convenient ha ] I also taped mine up to keep the wires from moving around during the rest of my installation, and it works perfect, I get no popping on turn on and the amp works perfectly. The great thing about using this method is that you can get the adapter just about anywhere, and it has a built in heatsink already in the adapter, and there’s no soldering unless you want to solder the wires as some folks do. I have had my Pioneer in the Stang about 6 months now and the sound just blows the shaker away, So if this sounds like the solution your looking for, pick up your favorite brand, for me its Pioneer but any top of the line head unit will make all the difference in the world.
I hope this helps, and if you have any questions just ask, myself or someone else will be glad to help


Last edited by Big Blue on Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:47 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:23 pm
Posts: 308
Location: Edgewood, MD
please let me clarify some things.

Ford did not design the Shaker audio system.
(Ford/Visteon did design the older Mach 460 audio system)

Ford set forth the minimum system requirements, and took bids from suppliers.

Big Blue, I'm sorry you're favorite brand is pioneer, because that's who designed and manufactures all of Ford's current radios. Pioneer came up with the 5v+ wake signal (the old Ford/Visteon used 12v+ to the amps).

In my personal opinion only, the Pioneer head units are crap. Ford has had higher warranty claims on head units in the past 3 years (when they switched to Pioneer) than they ever had with Visteon. The Visteon units just got too expensive, so Ford had to switch to stay profitable. The biggest floater in the bowl was the Sony Explod Focus. I figure I replaced at least half of the system in each of the vehicles that came in for service. Every one had to have the Sony-made harnesses replaced, most had blown speakers and subs, many had dead amps, and quite a few had head unit issues.

My personal favorites have been the Kenwood Excellon line and Clarion ProAudio. I've no issues with any of their products (unlike Pioneer. I used to work for a Pioneer dealer. 30% warranty rate), and their audio-out is very clean (as viewed on an oscilliscope). Pioneers provide excellent performance usually, when they work... :whistle:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 9:20 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 12:01 am
Posts: 523
Location: New Windsor, MD

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2005 Mustang GT: Stock shortblock and heads, comp cams, intake/exhaust, 11.89 at 115mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:03 am
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:40 pm
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Location: Essex Md


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 12:01 am
Posts: 523
Location: New Windsor, MD

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2005 Mustang GT: Stock shortblock and heads, comp cams, intake/exhaust, 11.89 at 115mph


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 Post subject: Shaker Replacement Head
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:52 pm 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Location: Edgewood, MD

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 Post subject: Shaker 500
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 1:24 pm 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 11:23 pm
Posts: 1128
Location: Perry Hall, MD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:14 pm 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 1:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 6:36 pm
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Location: Belcamp MD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:04 am 
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Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 5:48 am
Posts: 17
Location: Glen Arm
My car started with the shaker 500 system and I got it used and one of the subs was blown, and since my last car a system I transfered most of it over and I upgraded to an Kenwood Excelon DDX812, also got new speakers and a sub in the trunk. It sounds awesome, when I turn it up I can't even hear my exhuast and I have no mufflers.


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